BD athlete Colin Haley makes first-ever solo of Cero Standhardt in Patagonia - Black Diamond Equipment, Ltd.

BD athlete Colin Haley makes first-ever solo of Cero Standhardt in Patagonia - Black Diamond Equipment, Ltd.

Most Awesome Sports Cam Videos of 2010

Most Awesome Sports Cam Videos of 2010: "Most Awesome Sports Cam Videos of 2010 | REI Blog: Weblog for an active community of people who love the outdoors"

Solstice Special: Total Lunar Eclipse Tonight

Solstice Special: Total Lunar Eclipse Tonight: "Solstice Special: Total Lunar Eclipse Tonight | REI Blog: Weblog for an active community of people who love the outdoors"

Peixe elétrico mata Jacaré

Well that answers that question.

Gear Fest

This July I plan on heading out to Washington to have some fun and learn some new skills from the ladies and gentlemen of Alpine Ascents International. In preparation, I've been gear shopping. A Montbell U.L. Down and Permafrost Parka, Arteryx Alpha Pants and Bora 95 backpack, La Sportiva Spantik boots, and other items are all waiting to be ordered and then tested.


On top of that I am going to have to get into better shape. Not that I'm in bad shape now! I just don't think I can carry a 60 pound pack up a 50 degree slope for hours on end. But I will be able to, now that I have the motivation.


For me it's all about the motivation. Without a goal (a summit, a trip, a race) I can get very lazy. But nothing cures that quicker than imagining myself huffing a puffing my way up a mountain, holding back the rest of the climbing party, or being so whipped that I can't enjoy myself.


Another great motivator is new gear. Shiny new toys to play with and get all dirty. Questions to answer. Like, is Gore Tex Windstopper waterproof at all, how hard can you climb in these "approach" shoes, and what's the absolute minimum amount of clothing you can run in when it's freezing outside without going hypothermic?


UPS truck is here. Gotta go!

Arcteryx Venta SV Waterproofness

I have read that the Arcteryx Venta SV jacket, with its Gore Tex Windstopper fabric and tape sealed seams is just about waterproof. So today, when I noticed the rain coming in sideways, I thought, "Why not?"


After an hour long, 3 mile walk in the gusting wind and the heavy rain here's what I found out... it is not waterproof. But it is really, REALLY water resistant.

The shoulder area, hood, and the outsides of the arms of the jacket held out for the full hour, not only holding the rain at bay, but holding the water off the fabric altogether. The DWR did a great job in keeping the material totally dry.


The body of the jacket is made from a different lighter Gore Windstopper material. This stuff wet out in about 30 minutes. That being said, it seemed to keep the water from getting through, but just barely.


The least water resistant part of the jacket turned out to be the stretch panels at the cuffs, the cuffs being the usual weak point in any waterproof jacket's armor. On the Venta SV, these panels wetted out, soaked up, and then leaked through fairly quickly. This lead to the sleeves of my base layer getting wet. Which then lead to wet hands.


So there you have it, the Venta SV is not waterproof. But man it really tries hard to be.


And did I mention that the wind was gusting to 40mph? Did mention that none of that wind made it through the Gore Windstopper, and that I was quite comfy on my little walk? Or that the hood stayed perfectly in place? In fact, if this were a review of the jacket as it was intended, I'd give it a 9 out of 10 for it's fit, quality, looks, and function.


It looses a point for 1, pockets, that while set high so as to be accessible with a pack or harness on, are still so damn deep that items placed in them fall down behind said pack hip belt or harness. And 2, for not having a wire brim on the hood.

I Want To Work HERE

I wonder if Outdoor Research is hiring?

Osprey Variant 37

Osprey's web site claims "The Variant 37 offers superb carry and a versatile volume for a variety of vertical endeavors." Over the past two years I have found this statement to be 100% accurate. I have used the Variant as a crag pack, summit pack, and even a three day overnight stuff-it-beyond-its-37-litter-capacity backpack and it's done it all without complaint. It has attachment points for skis, ice tools, racks of pro and more.


The materials are solid and I've had no rips tears or blow outs and I am not easy on my gear. The hip belt is wide, comfortable and supportive. And there are enough cinching down and opening up options on this pack to turn it into whatever type of pack you need it to be.


My complaints... All those adjustments leave lots of red nylon webbing waving in the breeze like prayer flags over a Tibetan monastery. The shoulder straps, hip belt, and back panel are made to not soak up water or hold snow (a good thing!), so they don't breath very well (a bad thing). There is no hip belt pocket. And lastly there are no water bottle pockets on this pack.

Now these gripes are minor and some of them are even reasons to love this pack. I'd hate to discourage you from getting a Variant because it was doing what it was made to do because, honestly, I love this backpack. The picture of me on Mt. Moran shows just how much stuff you can cram into it, even though it's really designed as a climbing pack. 30lbs.? No problemo!


10 out of 10 for being able to do so many things so well. 8 out of 10 for how well it does each of those individual things.

The Naturist Wears An Osprey

La Sportiva Gandas

I've been sporting the La Sportiva Gandas since back when it was still called the Gandalf, and I have to tell you that this damn shoe, is in my estimation, the best approach-and-then-keep-right-on-climbing shoe made. Even if I have no idea what a Ganda is... Approach shoes tend to be either more approach, or more climb - the Ganda definitely sits more on the climb side of the fence, but not so far over the line that 5 miles hikes are out of the question.

The front of the shoe is slip lasted (think ballerina slipper) while the rear is board lasted (think stiff as a...). The front end is precise, tight, and enables front pointing easily into 5.9 territory. The only reason this shoe can work double duty as a hiker is because of the extended lacing. Torque down your toes and send away. Loosen the laces, and walk off. I've climbed sport routes, trad Gunks routes, Grand Teton, Mt. Moran, and some other mountains in these shoes and they have never let me down - as long as I followed the simple rule that I never try to push too far past 5 miles of hiking in them. They are, after all La Sportiva tight in the toes, even with the laces backed off.

Do you get what you pay for? Absolutely. The leather is fine grained and supple. The rubber is still solid and shows no signs of de-lamination. The upper is soft and holds your foot like a (and I really hate to say this, but it's true!) like a glove. Get a pair in your true shoe size and I think you'll be happiest. The yellow is still bright and cheerful after all this time. The sticky Vibram dot rubber outsole (which works perfectly), however, is about ready for a re-sole. But keep in mind I climbed in these shoes a lot.

I am waiting for THE shoe you can hike 20 miles with a 30lbs. pack on in, and still have all your toes in the same positions and the same colors as when you started out. That shoe will get a 10. This shoe gets a 9.

Next time we'll talk about Osprey's Variant Backpack.